The Ultimate Gozo Travel Guide
South of Sicily and in the middle of the Mediterranean lies the small island country of Malta. Reds and browns of a rugged desert island meet the azure blues of the ocean. Arab, Italian and British influences are on equal displays. A wild mix of cultures and colors, Malta is unlike anywhere else in Europe. Gozo is the second largest of Malta’s inhabited islands and it’s the perfect place for an unforgettable family vacation. This Ultimate Gozo Travel Guide will help you determine where to stay, when to go and the best things to do on Gozo.
When to go:
Malta, and specifically Gozo, would be an incredible year-round destination, although the height of travel happens during the summer months of June, July and August, when the weather is sunny and hot. Shoulder seasons are April-May and September-October.
The farther in to shoulder season you are, the less crowded the beaches and the less hot the weather will be. We went in early September and the crowds had definitely decreased, but the weather was still very hot. It was ok for us, but if you’re looking for that ideal time, I’d vote late September or early October to get the best of everything – pleasant, warm weather, less people and the ability to still jump into the ocean.
If you’re less interested in swimming, the winter months would also be a great time to consider, as there are still days of sun and festivals abound.
How to get there:
Malta’s only airport is located just outside of the capital of Valletta on the island of Malta. To get to Gozo you’ll need to make your way to Cirkewwa, where the Gozo Channel ferry will take you on the 30 minute crossing to Gozo. You can see the daily time table here. Bus options are available from the airport to Cirkewwa (number 41 and 222 serve the ferry station) or you can hire a taxi from the airport.
You will definitely want to have a car for exploring Gozo. You may choose to pick up your rental car on Malta and drive yourself to the ferry or, if you’re like us, your car will be picked up on Gozo. We were picked up by a personal driver as arranged by the owner of our rental villa. Read on for more information about arranging a driver and car as a part of a villa rental in the Where to Stay section.
Where to stay:
The island of Gozo is the quieter, more remote and rugged sister of the bigger island, Malta. I was so glad we made the decision to stay on Gozo, as it was relaxed, peaceful, gorgeous and just a bit more removed.
We rented a villa with a personal pool in the town of Xagħra and were able to arrange a driver and rental car through the villa owner. A driver picked us up from the airport, drove us to the ferry and then on to our villa in Xagħra. Our rental car was waiting for us when we arrived and we left it parked at the villa when we left. It was so easy and I highly recommend it. Our villa, Ta’Dratta, a Gozo farmhouse, can be seen here.
Xagħra was the perfect landing place for us – a beautiful village with quick and easy access to small market places and a short drive from everything we wanted to see.
Victoria is the largest (and busiest) of the towns on the small island of Gozo. Stay here if you want restaurant, entertainment and shopping options. Marsalforn and Xlendi are great for being close to the beach. Għarb and San Lawrenz have the fancy hotels.
To be honest, the island is so small and drivable that you can’t mess up on your location. Look for the villa that suits your group (preferably with a pool if you can manage) and then explore from there.
Quick Tip: Air conditioning is a luxury in Malta and is operated on a pay-as-you-go basis. You literally pump Euro coins into the A/C unit control panel at night and it turns on until the money runs out. It can be a bit surprising, but this is how it’s done in rentals across the country. Come with plenty of coins (average of 5 euros per night, depending on the number of units and how hot it is, etc.). If it’s summer, plan to spend the days outside because, when the A/C is not running, it gets very warm in the villas.
What to pack:
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If you’re traveling in the summer or summer adjacent months, be prepared with warm weather clothes. The island is casual, unless you’re entering a church (even just as a tourist), where you’ll need covered shoulders and appropriate length shorts. Otherwise, you’ll want casual clothes, bathing suits, and shoes that are suitable for water, walking and easy to moderate hiking.
Appropriate water shoes are key! We brought multiple pairs of shoes with us, but I think I basically lived in these, my husband in these and the kids in these. You spend a bit of time walking rocks and climbing down to get to the best swimming spots. It’s then nice to have shoes that you can slip on easily, but won’t fall off your feet or slip on loose gravel, and can get wet with no problem.
Sun protection is the second big key – there wasn’t a single cloudy day on our visit and I think this is pretty typical in the summer months. The environment is harsh, with rocky cliffs running right up to the ocean, so you won’t find a plethora of shade options. Of course, there are some, but you should expect to be spending time in the sun. This is our favorite kids sunscreen (take multiple bottles!) and hats and swim shirts would be great to have available.
If you’re traveling with small kids or beginning swimmers, you’ll want lifejackets or puddle jumpers. While there are a few sandy beaches, there are many spots where the water drops off quickly, or you’ll want to swim and explore and it will be handy to have these so you don’t have to swim with a kid on your back!
Light weight, quick drying towels will come in handy, as several of the best beaches require a short walk-in to get to the water. We love these.
What to do:
Beaches:
The coast is the star of the show in Gozo, so you’ll want to spend ample time hopping from beach to beach.
Dwejra Bay
A crown jewel of the island, head here for mind-blowing spots like the Blue Hole, the Fungus Rock and the Inland Sea. Picture sea stacks, rugged cliffs and the most beautiful blue water. It’s an otherworldly landscape.
You can easily spend an entire day exploring, so I recommend starting early and hitting the Blue Hole first. It’s the smallest, and probably most popular site, but the early bird gets the worm and we had almost a half hour all to ourselves here. Completely worth it.
When the Blue Hole starts to get crowded, head to the Inland Sea. Gozo kiosks offer a great outside lunch option at almost every beach you find, and Dwejra Bay is no exception. Stop for a bite at one and then make your way to the Inland Sea. From here, you can hire a boat or swim into the cave that sits off shore. Our kids made the swim and it’s an incredible experience.
Wied il-Għasri
Trek down to do some gorge swimming in this narrow sea inlet. The water is a breathtaking color and grottos abound. The waters are gentle and crystal clear and the views are special. I loved this spot – again, going early or later in the afternoon makes it even more special.
Hondoq ir-Rummien
The epicenter for water sport activities or trips to Comino is Hodoq. Head here if you’re set for activity. The beach itself isn’t my favorite, but head past it and to your right to find an incredible inlet with the most turquoise water. Jump in and swim to explore grottos and caves.
Għar Qawqla
Our favorite beach of the entire trip, this was an incredible place to swim. A shelf jutting out into the ocean is super fun for small kids. Climbable rocks are perfect for jumping for older adventurers. You can rent beach chairs and umbrellas for 5 euros a piece (a steal for European beaches). Make sure to stroll around the point and check out the caves.
Ramla Beach
Perhaps the most famous of the Gozo beaches, as it’s one of the few that is sandy, the beach itself was just ok for us. A little crowded and underwhelming (when compared to some of the more stunning coastline in Gozo), the real star of the show is the hike up to the Mixta cave. It’s worth a trip to the beach to take the walk up to the cave, which overlooks the bay. You can also stop here if you’re short on any beach gear. There are plenty of places to purchase towels, sunscreen, snorkel gear, etc.
Xwejni Bay
Honestly, it’s just a cool experience. The road runs tucked in between white rock cliffs and the ocean. After walking the Salt Plans (read on under Historical Sites below) in the heat, we stopped here and floated in the ocean a while. There are plenty of good restaurants around and the vibe is laid back with swimming piers and snorkeling all around.
Wied il-Miehlaħ Window
We didn’t swim or beach here, but stopped by for an evening stroll to see this stunning sea arch, along with massive sea caves. You can walk across it if you’re brave. The drive is also incredible. The road takes you super close to the cliff edge and past more hiking options to see the Sand Waves.
Historical Sites:
Ġgantija Archaeological Park
Located in Xagħra, this park is home to neolithic temples that are amongst the oldest in the world. Admission is reasonable and there’s a lot of interesting reading to do.
Citadella Gozo
Nice for an hour or two of strolling, checking out the views, shopping some handmade crafts and learning a bit about the history of Victoria. Check out the Visitors Center for the bulk of the information. Pair it with a stop in Victoria for gelato at Vanilla + Gelateria.
Quick tip: Parking at the Citadel is an easy option and, during our visit, was reasonably priced at 5 euros.
Gozo Aqueduct
There’s not a lot going on here besides the aqueduct itself, but it’s a nice stop if you’re driving by!
Xwejni Salt Pans
This is a salt production site with incredible views of the Mediterranean. Strolling along the cliffs gives you a look into life on the island. Huts built into the rock offer places to buy incredible Gozo sea salt.
Quick tip: Try to hit any and all of these sites early morning or early evening. The peak day time hours are brutal if you’re visiting in the summer. You’ll be glad to not be walking around in the full sun if you can help it.
Day Trips:
Malta
The larger, busier island of Malta is a short ferry ride from Gozo using the same Gozo Channel Ferry from Mgarr. There are many interesting historic sites in Malta, as well as picturesque villages. Of course, there are tons of beaches to explore. For us, the Gozo beaches were more relaxing, but we did check out a few on Malta.
When you’re on the island, check out St. Paul’s Catacombs to explore underground Roman cemetery complexes and St. Paul’s Cathedral, to see where the apostle first preached to the Maltese when he was shipwrecked on Malta. The museum also allows access to WWII bunkers, so you can learn a little more about Malta’s interesting role in the war.
Comino
This small island sits in the middle and is uninhabited, but boasts an incredible bay known as the Blue Lagoon. From Gozo you can ferry, boat or kayak to Comino.
When we set out on our trip, I was sure this would be one of the highlights. We bailed on the idea after being told by MULTIPLE locals not to go to the Blue Lagoon. According to locals, by 9 a.m., this place is crawling with people. There’s little in the way of shade or beach and it’s a prime destination for loud parties. It’s also difficult to get off the island once you’re on, as many reviews will tell you.
Locals went so far as to call it miserable and suggested that we spend our time on Gozo instead. I don’t know if it was the right decision, but we certainly didn’t have any bad experiences staying on Gozo. I you make the choice to go, you’ll find many options for traveling there conveniently from Gozo. like this one. Opt for the first boat of the day so that you can experience a bit of the beauty while it’s quieter.
Kayaking may also be an amazing option. Age restrictions for kids held us back from this choice, but if you’re game for a paddle, it might be the perfect way to see the Blue Lagoon in your own space.
Where to eat:
The kiosk is king in Gozo. Beach side stands offering casual, outdoor dining that you can enjoy in your swimsuit or whatever you’re sporting. They are relaxed, affordable and surprisingly good.
Dwejra Kiosk – delightful drinks and surprisingly delicious food, right in the middle of the Blue Hole and the Inland Sea
Hondoq Kiosk – burgers and cold beer by the beach, island vibes abound
Qbajjar Restaurant – stumbled in here one day by accident and loved it (it’s a little more upscale, but they still seated our 6 kid party), then jumped immediately into the bay after finishing eating
If you’re doing more cooking in, you’ll find small convenience stores selling some basics in each village, with larger grocery stores like Lidl and Arkadia located in Victoria. It may sound inconvenient, but keep in mind the island is small and it won’t take you long to get there. Make sure to pick up some local specialties, like Gozitan cheese, olives or, our family favorites, a pastizzi, as pictured below.
I hope this Ultimate Gozo Travel Guide has been helpful as you plan your trip to one incredible island. Enjoy!
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