Berlin with Kids: Winter Travel Guide
Berlin is a sprawling city where worlds have, for decades, come together. A lingering, somber memory of dark times and destruction collides with a quirky, fun, unquenchable hope for the future. Berlin is gritty, yet lovely, with elements of east and west mixing together. A place in the middle of the process, the German capital is a truly interesting place to travel with kids. This guide will explore traveling to Berlin with kids, specifically in the winter.
Having just recently bought a car after seven (that’s right, SEVEN) years of living the bike life here in Copenhagen, our most recent break from school found us searching for a drivable adventure in the middle of February.
We visited Berlin once before, back when we only had one child and were constantly sleep deprived in the land of new parenthood. We stumbled into Berlin with little clue what we were doing and, to be honest, stumbled back out a little bit unimpressed. I think we honestly just didn’t know how to process it. We were new to living in Europe and expected this major city to look, well, European. You know, quaint, old, charming.
That’s not Berlin. This is a place that’s been through some stuff. There is a whole lot of history to explore, most of it heavy, but so important to understanding this city, it’s past and it’s future. I knew this place was historically fascinating, but our return journey, with older kids and a bit more experience under my belt, allowed me to see how fun it can be. There are so many things to do, so many unique ways to experience this place. One, or even two trips could never do them all justice. Let’s explore Berlin!
Staying in Berlin with kids:
As mentioned, Berlin is a big city, so you have a lot of options for where to base yourself. Something worth mentioning here is that, unlike so many European capitals, Berlin has a rather reasonable cost-of-living, so you can expect to find affordable options for places to stay, even in the heart of the city.
West Berlin
The western part of the city is, obviously, the section that reaped more European influence until the Berlin Wall came down in the late 1980s. The architecture and stylings reflect that influence. Expect streets lined with beautiful gaslights, large parks, museums, shopping and monuments.
On our recent trip we stayed in the Charlottenburg neighborhood and absolutely loved it. Easy access to U-Bahn and areas of free street parking were highly appreciated and made finding our way into other parts of the city easy. Kaiserdamm (the street we stayed on) feeds right into the heart of the city, offering lovely drives or walks through some of the famous city sights or into the Tiergarten. The streets were quiet in the evenings, despite being located on a major thoroughfare.
East Berlin
East Berlin offers quite a different experience, but may also be worth your consideration. Gritty, utilitarian, haphazard, but also artistic and expressive, the eastern part of the city is full of character. Murals and graffiti cover most surfaces, water pipes run above ground and over head and buildings are block-style without a lot of fanfare.
Many prefer East Berlin because it’s hip, young, unique and, let’s be honest, quite the party scene (seriously, you will see people coming in and out of clubs at 7 a.m. when you’re searching for coffee). Families may have to dig a bit more to make this their ideal base. Our first stay in Berlin was in the Friedrichshain area, which provided quick and easy access to fascinating museums, parts of the Berlin Wall and the Spree river.
While convenience was high, we felt a little out of place at times, strolling through early morning party scenes with a baby or sections of parks where groups of men were having a lot of loud fun. Nothing unsafe, but maybe just not quite our vibe at the time. On our return journey, I felt more able to embrace the positives of this area. The amount of character is high, but you do have to be willing to embrace the grittier side of the city if you choose to stay in the East.
Things to do in Berlin with kids:
Our first trip to Berlin was in September, a lovely time to be outside enjoying Berlin’s parks and outdoor sites. We did the Spree river cruise, visited Checkpoint Charlie, walked through the Tiergarten and explored Museum Island by foot. If you’re in Berlin and the weather is great (or if you’re willing to bundle up and brave the cold), I think all of these are fun experiences for first-time tourists.
During our February visit we had snow every day and temperatures were quite cold. Not impossible to be outside, but just maybe for more limited times. Here are our favorites from the week.
Visit a museum
There are so many options for museums in Berlin. Art museums seriously abound. If you love art, you have multiple options worth your time. My family are not so big on the art museums, my kids having an especially hard time with them, so we tend to opt for more interactive options.
The German Spy Museum/Deutsches Spionage Museum
Located steps from the Potsdamer Platz U-Bahn station, this place was beloved by our group of 5 children, ranging in ages from 6-12. There are many hands on activities, including a laser maze that I know they stood in line for 20 times. While the kids are trying to solve spy puzzles and games, there is a lot of fascinating reading material for adults on the long history of espionage in the city of Berlin. As the actual meeting point of east and west during the Cold War years, it makes sense that this city would be the espionage capital of the world.
Deutschlandmuseum
This museum offers interactive scenes from multiple periods of German history, from the days of war with Rome, the Reformation, both World Wars and more. Each scene gives a brief overview of the time period, so you won’t be able to get super in-depth, but it allows the history to move at a pace that works for the kids, as well as makes some of the aspects of German history more tangible for them. Expect to spend 2 hours here at the most. The museum is a bit on the pricey side, but I thought it was worth it for an in-door experience that introduced a lot of interesting topics to the kids.
Quick-tip: Book tickets online for a better price. Look specifically for a combination ticket with the German Spy Museum if it interests you, as the museums are next door to one another.
CC Favorite: If making a day of both museums, stop for a lunch break at TERAS Döner Kebab, which is a short 10 minute walk away, passing through the incredible Mall of Berlin. I’m not much of a mall person, but this place really impresses, with bridges connecting sections of the mall over streets and slides stretching between floors. TERAS is outside of the mall and offers some truly great kebab (a Berlin must have) with a good amount of indoor seating on cold winter days.
The Topography of Terror
Located in the former SS headquarters, this outlines many of the dark chapters of history set in this city. It’s heavy and there’s quite a bit of reading relating to WWII, but also the Cold War years and the reign of the Stasi in East Berlin. It’s history made real, especially considering the building it is housed in. Consider taking your kids if they’re a bit older and you’re willing to engage in some hard but important conversations.
Computerspielemuseum/The Computer Game Museum
This is a really fun option that the kids will love. It is, as you might have guessed, a museum full of original versions of video games throughout the ages. I went in a bit skeptical of this one, but even I had a great time playing original Dance Dance Revolution and Super Mario Bros. My favorite aspect was the care that went into decorating sections of the museum to look like rooms straight out of the decade that the featured game came from. My daughter loved playing Crash Bandicoot sitting in a 90s rec room bean bag chair with a lava lamp set up beside the TV. There are also interactive games that allow people to play together – it’s just really a lot of fun.
Quick-tip: Most German museums/sites offer family tickets that allow parents to pay a reduced price to enter with up to 3 children. There is usually a two-parent and a one-parent ticket option that makes the price tag a bit easier to accept.
Visit historical sites in small portions
The Reichstag Building
This houses Germany’s Bundestag (Parliament) and is home to an incredible feat of architecture – a giant glass dome which allows visitors to view the parliament in action from above. Free of charge to climb, the Reichstag offers a unique experience for visitors to the German capital.
After paying for several museums, we were glad to have the opportunity to ascend the dome, out of the snow, for free. Around the base of the dome, you’ll find a small, but thorough retelling of the building’s history and place in German life now. Views of the city are also quite nice. Our kids were mainly interested to getting to the top of the dome, but it was enough of an experience for them to allow us to have some time to read up on the many lives this building has lived.
Quick-tip: While free, you must register your group in advance to enter the Reichstag and climb the dome. You can do that here.
Tiergarten
Berlin’s most famous green space, and rightly so. This park is massive, and lovely no matter the weather. Because it’s been central to the city for so long, it is itself an important historical site. Our visit provided us the chance to see the park covered in snow. Stroll through and see what you discover.
Brandenburg Gate
The city’s iconic landmark. Always busy with tourists, it’s still worth a stop. The gate has been the backdrop of many events in German history and, during our last visit, was the site of a political rally in relation to the upcoming elections. Surrounding the gate are Pariser Platz, home of the U.S. Embassy and Unter den Linden, Berlin’s most famous shopping street.
Quick-tip: Brandenburg Gate, Tiergarten and the Reichstag building are all in the same walkable vicinity. I’d explore the Tiergarten, then warm up a bit (just a bit) inside the Reichstag building (at sunset if you’re lucky), then layer back up and see the Brandenburg Gate when it’s lit up in the evening. It’s a lovely site in the dark.
East Side Gallery
Another free, easy option for families to take in some of the history of the city without spending. This is a section of the Berlin Wall that is today home to numerous artworks spanning several blocks. Stroll down the sidewalk and spot famous iconic Berlin paintings, scanning QR codes if you want to read more about each one. Stop for a break at the riverside green spaces if the kids want to run around.
CC Favorite: Once you walk the wall, you simply must stop for schnitzel at maybe our favorite Berlin restaurant. Scheers Schnitzel is a true gem, tucked away under an overpass, with walls covered in Sharpie writing, but honestly the most delicious schnitzel I’ve had. Don’t sleep on the sides either – the potato salad served with the Jägerschnitzel is out of this world! It can get a little busy in the early afternoon, so if you can, try to swing in before or around noon to snag a table and beat the rush.
Take a short trip out of the city
If you have more time to spend in the city, access to a car (or are willing to utilize public transport) and are looking for additional activities for the kids, consider a short day trip for other options within an hour from Berlin city center.
Tropical Islands
A famous indoor water park housed in a former zeppelin hangar one hour south of Berlin. Kept at a balmy 78 degrees, this is a nice relief from the cold. The kids will have a blast trying the many waterslides and pools, including the heated pools and slides that go from indoor to outdoor in the Amazonia area. Everything is themed on tropical places around the world, so expect palm trees, flamingos, drinks with umbrellas, etc. Not super German, but a big day of fun for the kids, plus pretty cool surroundings in the giant hangar.
Quick-tip: Online booking with the family ticket will save you a lot. Food on-site isn’t the best, but you’re completely free to bring in your own lunch or dinner, so I’d pack up a lunch next time and save on the over-priced restaurants.
Baum und Zeit
In the small town of Beelitz-Heilstätten is an abandoned tuberculosis sanatorium now turned into a family park and open to visitors. Explore the crumbling buildings via a treetop boardwalk, try out one of the playgrounds and have a coffee and cake in the onsite café. Maybe best enjoyed in the warmer months, it’s still lovely and lively in the winter, with reduced entry rates for the off-season.
Final tips
Watch for the Ampelmann, an iconic Berlin symbol that you will notice on crosswalk lights. Unique to the city, these guys are branded on everything. Haribo (the famous German gummy bear maker) even makes a special gummy version that you can find in souvenir shops. Super fun souvenir for kids!
For adults, hit a local beer shop for a huge selection of both local Berlin beers and other beers from across Germany. There are so many good options!
That wraps up this winter travel guide! What do I need to do on my next trip to Berlin? Let me know so I can take note. I hope you’re able to make your way to this truly one-of-a-kind city with your family sometime soon.
Looking for other winter destinations? Check out these posts from the blog…
